New York Fashion Week Fall 2012, First Blush

February 10th, 2012

Is jew­elry a fash­ion designer’s friend or foe? It’s dif­fi­cult to say exactly what orna­ment does on a fash­ion run­way. While I love to see the designer’s vision com­pleted and con­sider the sug­ges­tion for the sea­son, I’m not con­vinced that many design­ers truly under­stand the incred­i­ble oppor­tu­nity pre­sented when it comes to fin­ish­ing their looks with jew­elry. Granted there is an argu­ment that can be made that says the ensem­bles are enough. BUT…is that real­is­ti­cally con­sid­er­ing the way women dress day today? Many of them enjoy wear­ing jew­elry, and they will wear it whether or not a designer shows it on the runway.

So far, there were many deep v-necklines, long limbs, ear­lobes, and fin­gers that went bare and then there were higher neck­lines framed in a cacoph­ony of color and paired with beaded jew­elry that cel­e­brated a rain­bow of eth­nic exu­ber­ance. The mix was so blended that you didn’t know where the neck­lace began and the dress ended. Lib­er­tine was a prime exam­ple here. Did I like it? Yes. How­ever, I liked it best when it is inten­tional and not an after­thought, and not as a place card holder for bet­ter bling to come, such as was the case for the Tadashi Shoji show.

NY Fash­ion Week 2012, Libertine

New York Fash­ion Week 2012, Libertine

Cyn­thia Rowley’s turtle­neck dresses sparkled cour­tesy of the fash­ion jew­elry firm du jour, Dan­nijo, although I was hard-pressed to tell if the col­lars were neck­laces or just elab­o­rately embroi­dered with beading.

Cyn­thia Rowley/Dannijo New York Fash­ion Week 2012

The sculpted wood ear­rings at M. Pat­mos hung in a semi-circular con­fig­u­ra­tion hov­er­ing right under the chin, fram­ing the face in a sur­pris­ingly flat­ter­ing way and all with­out a Swarovski crys­tal in sight. There was a hand­craft ori­en­ta­tion to them that felt right with the high color of the lush knits. On the prac­ti­cal side, these ear­rings won’t catch and pull either, a kind of smart thought for sweater-dressing.

M. Pat­mos New York Fash­ion Week 2012

Hollywood’s big night is in only three weeks and Tadashi Shoji offered up a deli­cious menu of frocks to con­sider. Beau­ti­ful as they are, the jew­elry on the run­way was a whis­per, and pre­dictably placed on the ear and the wrist as we have seen far too many times on red car­pets past. The pieces amounted to plac­ards that could have eas­ily read, “PUT YOUR BLING HERE!” While I did enjoy the clothes, the state­ment is much more effec­tive when the styling is intended to inspire, oth­er­wise leave it to the imag­i­na­tions of celebri­ties and their stylists.

Tadashi Shoji, New York Fash­ion Week 2012

I’ll leave you with my last thought for next fall, which isn’t exactly about jew­elry as it is about acces­sories in gen­eral. Have you ever worn a scarf as if it were a fab­u­lous neck­lace? I have, do, and in the com­ing Feb­ru­ary, just may. TSE gave us scarves that had the com­mand, ease, and ele­gance of a fab­u­lous Tony Duquette for Coach neck­lace (have you seen the col­lec­tion designed by my pal Hut­ton Wilkin­son? Talk about incred­i­ble and accessible!).

TSE New York Fash­ion Week 2012

TSE New York Fash­ion Week 2012

I’ll be blog­ging about NYFW over the course of the week­end so please check back. Also I will have a cou­ple of book reviews about my favorite jew­elry designer, Suzanne Belper­ron and Van Cleef & Arpels sent over a copy of Bals that look for­ward to shar­ing with you.

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