Project Accessory Episode 7: On a Wing and a Prayer…
December 16th, 2011Next week is the finale. This week two designers were eliminated: Christina and Diego. Before continuing on, let me say that I’ve loved their work, and they were more than qualified to be in the final five before they took their bow last night. In fact, they perfectly complimented the show and the other designers in this contest of style. Every remaining designer was unique in his/her vision and process. Christina and Diego are both immensely talented, innovative, and passionate about what they do. If only this wasn’t reality programming where everything is judged in the moment, then we would have much more to see from them. Maybe Lifetime would consider a documentary about the professional life of a designer after the Project series: how they’ve moved on, their career path, and how their design aesthetic develops hereafter. Many designers say they have learned a lot from being on the show. It would be fascinating to see the affect, if any, it has had on their careers.
In terms of the winners of this challenge, I think that Rich edged out Nina by the tiniest of margins. It wasn’t in execution or attention to detail because there they both were brilliant. And here I have to also give kudos to Brian for his pieces. His necklace, cuff bracelet, and ring told a lush and cohesive story. I’m not sure what Molly was seeing when she remarked about the black cuff looking cheap; to me, it was masterfully executed and beautifully finished. Take a closer look at the individual pieces on Lifetime’s Rate the Runway, and see if you agree.
Rich refocused our attention on what is important in jewelry, which of course is design. He made each part of that insect a focal point: the head, the body, and the wings. All at once, he cannibalized and canonized them, transforming the anatomy of entomology into something precious, like a gemstone. While the Swarovski crystals added a bit of sparkle and depth of color, the insect’s disembodied parts drew the viewer’s eye to the ornament. Watching Rich talk about his design, I was cheering. This is the kind of thinking that gave us Rene Lalique, a nineteenth century jewelry artisan (and later famous art glass manufacturer) who took insects and transformed them into dimorphic shapes and themes never conceived by nature. These Art Nouveau motifs produced exquisite jewelry that was unorthodox, sometimes repugnant, and the kind that demanded attention. It was resolutely compelling.

Rene Lalique — Gulbenkian Dragonfly enamel brooch France, c. 1897.1898. Gold enamel, chrysoprase, chalcedony, moonstone and diamond

Rene Lalique — Gulbenkian Dragonfly enamel brooch France, c. 1897.1898. Gold enamel, chrysoprase, chalcedony, moonstone and diamond
Nina took things spiderish and made arachnid poetry with them. The leggy and lyrical wire elements on her cuff were as attractive as they were original. While I have seen body ornament done well before, in particular by studio artisan Lucie Heskett-Brem of whom I am a huge fan, I haven’t observed anything as tailored or precisely draped as Nina’s necklace. The way it caressed the shoulder and was fitted almost like a sleeve made it personal, sculpted to the woman wearing it. Holiday-wise, this is the ultimate stocking stuffer, or Chanukah present. Hint, hint, honey. Loved, too, Nina’s brooch and the versatility of wearing it in the hair, or anywhere else.
Next week’s winner is anyone’s guess. The last three designers are all champions, regardless of who actually takes home the prize.
