Paris, Spring 2012: Harnessing Nature Then Letting It Loose
October 5th, 2011It wasn’t until several images into the runway show at Alexander McQueen that I realized all the shapes had an oceanic wave to them. Clicking over to the reviews, my observations were confirmed (I rarely read the reviews first — it is like opening the last pages of a book before actually reading it). Fabrics in multilayers of transparency and weight fluttered, or rather, floated, along the runway and at one point a silver harness-like ornament was introduced into the collection as if to cast a net over all the matter drifting away. Losing control and reclaiming it is a global concern these days and was made alarmingly clear yesterday by Ben Bernanke.
Then there is the dice-tosser at Chanel, designer Karl Lagerfeld. Pearls have defined the brand practically since its inception — strands of them hanging around the neck harness an image that is now appropriated by practically every clothing designer around the world. So Mr. Lagerfeld did what artists (and writers) are encouraged to do: cast your ideas off, let them loose and see where they go. Pearls were strung along a bare torso and strewn, large and small, throughout the hair. The message was clear: you can have your strings of pearls but that doesn’t define Chanel. Chanel isn’t a single idea, just like the pearl isn’t just a gem. It has a unique surface and color. It is an organically created object of desire. Like a woman.



