BULGARI, Between Eternity and History, From 1884 to 2009, 125 Years of Italian Jewels

November 13th, 2009
Between Eternity and History, Bulgari, From 1884 To 2009, 125 Years of Italian Jewels

Between Eter­nity and His­tory, Bul­gari, From 1884 To 2009, 125 Years of Ital­ian Jewels

Most peo­ple remem­ber Bul­gari from the 1970s and ‘80s when the Par­entesi mod­u­lar line of jew­elry was first intro­duced. Author Amanda Triossi informs us that the line was the most copied jew­elry design of all time. It is sur­pris­ing how much the motif res­onates today, pos­sess­ing all the essence of its time and still invites us to linger over its smooth, sat­is­fy­ing pat­tern, and lus­trous sur­face, with or with­out the addi­tion of dia­monds. How­ever, Triossi, who spent years cat­a­loging the company’s designs, takes us on the full-fare ride, from the end of the nine­teenth cen­tury to the present day. So not only do we get to expe­ri­ence the firm’s con­tem­po­rary aes­thetic, in gen­er­ous help­ings of full color, dou­ble spread images, but the his­tory is eru­ditely, and insight­fully regaled in brief, delightful-to-read pas­sages, and stun­ning pho­tographs. Some of the best and most inter­est­ing are of the famous women who wore Bul­gari, among them: Mon­ica Vitti, Gina Lol­lo­b­rigidia, Capucine, and Sophia Loren (the one of her on page 123 epit­o­mizes Ital­ian beauty in art and mor­tal attrib­utes. Roman mythol­ogy couldn’t come up with bet­ter representatives).

A case of jewelry at the Bulgari 125 year retrospective

A case of jew­elry at the Bul­gari 125 year retrospective

Bulgari en tremblant brooch, platinum, fancy yellow and white diamonds c 1960

Bul­gari en trem­blant brooch, plat­inum, fancy yel­low and white dia­monds c 1960

Parentesi bangle by Bulgari, c 1982

Par­entesi ban­gle by Bul­gari, c 1982

The book is an excel­lent read. It was the cat­a­log to the exhibit (see an image of the show above) that was held in Rome ear­lier in the year. Given as a hol­i­day gift, together with my book (Brooches: Time­less Adorn­ment), you will be bestow­ing upon your recip­i­ent hours of plea­sure. Whether self-gift (feed­ing your soul is impor­tant too), or part of a cel­e­bra­tory exchange, the happy return of your invest­ment will last far longer than New Year’s.

Bulgari bib necklace and earrings, yellow gold with cabochon turquoise, emerald, and amethyst, c 1965

Bul­gari bib neck­lace and ear­rings, yel­low gold with cabo­chon turquoise, emer­ald, and amethyst, c 1965

***Please note: The book has a dif­fer­ent cover for the Amer­i­can mar­ket which you will find on Amazon.com. The front cover depicted above, in my opin­ion, is more evoca­tive of the firm’s aesthetic.

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