Collaboration Highway II: The Fashion Week Route

February 13th, 2009

More col­lab­o­ra­tions to report, well, sort of, if you call unit­ing your frocks with a few pre­cious things from one of the most famous, albeit deceased, sculp­tors in the world.

Rachel Roy, Fall 2009, mirror necklace by Justin Giunta of Subversive

Rachel Roy, Fall 2009, mir­ror neck­lace by Justin Giunta of Subversive

Rachel Roy’s run­way held a mir­ror up to fash­ion, lit­er­ally, with a neck­lace by Subversive’s Justin Giunta. The con­cept is com­mend­able. The exe­cu­tion is not. Awk­ward would best describe the look of the neck­lace above, and paired with the sophis­ti­cated lines of Ms. Roy’s cre­ation, the effect seems a tad vul­gar. More move­ment to the mir­ror, in a curvi­lin­ear or other amoe­bic form, could have lent sen­su­al­ity to the over­all effect.

Elise Overland Fall 2009, necklace by Alexander Calder

Elise Over­land Fall 2009, neck­lace by Alexan­der Calder

Designer Elise Øver­land will be shar­ing her run­way tomor­row with hand­crafted works by artist Alexan­der Calder (1898−1976). His jew­elry, which was cre­ated dur­ing the infancy of the Mod­ernist move­ment of the 1930s and 40s, informed his larger sculp­tures. He once said he thought best in wire.

Øver­land bor­rowed from the col­lec­tion of Calder’s grand­son, Sandy, a good (pro­foundly gen­er­ous) friend. These rare and beau­ti­ful orna­ments are not as heavy in atti­tude as they are in impor­tance. Over­shad­ow­ing the fash­ion designer’s aes­thetic may be their threat to this “col­lab­o­ra­tion”. Although it is won­der­ful to see Calder’s pieces incor­po­rated into con­tem­po­rary style, rather than laid bare and vac­u­umed, as they would oth­er­wise be in the dis­play case of a museum.

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