What’s An “It” Bag? Ask René Lalique, He Only Made Five
May 2nd, 2008With so many fashion magazines declaring the designer it bag an antiquated notion and jewelry the new black, this Art Nouveau necessity by is most definitely a lust after. But not so fast, my fair-weather fashion friends, there are only so many of these lovelies to go around. In fact, according to Siegelson NY, the venerable firm that owns it, Lalique made very few handbags and the catalogue raisonné by Sigrid Barten, René Lalique: Schmuck und Objets d’art 1890–1910, published in 1977, includes only five.
Just to give you an inside tour of this fantastic object: the silver frame is worked in wasps and clover flowers–depicting the busy, buzzing drone of spring and summer. Each bloom is embodied in opalescent glass gems; during the Art Nouveau period, the opal represented the kaleidescope of life’s ever-evolving moods; as light shifts, the color of the gem changes.
Take a close look at the body of the bag. Who…who does the mesh link resemble (I’ve given you a clue…)? It is the stylized head of an owl. Depending on the cultural iconography, an owl symbolized wisdom, intuition, nocturnal omniscience or mortality. This grittier side of nature appealed to late nineteenth-century poets and writers of the Symbolist Movement, whose anti-idealistic philosophy of dignifying the humble and ordinary, had a strong influence over many artists, and Lalique in particular.

