Jewelry Editorial–It’s A Good Thing
March 3rd, 2007The kind of information posted here isn’t something you will find in your average (or above average) fashion magazine. And it won’t be a boring recounting of jewelry history either. That’s my first promise to you. It’s just that as a freelance writer/jewelry historian/soon-to-be book author, I want to offer more useful information than just a gorgeously arranged page of rings or bracelets with the words, “price upon request” captioned beneath. You can “oooh” and “aaah” to your heart’s content but what are you actually taking away from this experience?
The better “books” (journalism parlance for fashion magazines) offer all types of information about the history or origin of a given style of dress. Yet how many times do we need to read about the unique genius of YSL, Karl Lagerfeld, or Marc Jacobs and their road to stardom? And the same goes for shoes and bags. I’m not saying that this information isn’t interesting or even useful. It gives us perspective. By reading Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, or Nylon (I read all of them), we gain an education and insight that provides us with a better understanding of fashion. The next time we shop (H&M, Topshop, Uniqlo… anywhere, not just Saks), our choices are better informed. The same approach should be applied to jewelry too, and sadly, it’s not.
Of course there was a time when jewelry was an integral part of fashion, and in fact was viewed as more a decorative art than a mere accessory. Jewelry had an active role in cultural expression. Ancient and ethnic traditions were celebrated in gold, bronze, brass and silver and contemporary expressions of luxury were gem-laden and bright. Actors wore their own jewelry as evidence of their self-expression and, yes, their success. Sarah Bernhardt wore her Art Nouveau (by Lalique no less) necklaces on stage and Mae West’s incredible collection of Belle Époque jewels made her first famous as “Diamond Lilâ€Â. In the 1930s, Marlene Dietrich wore her cabochon emerald (of roughly 128 carats) and pave-set, baguette and brilliant diamond bracelet in several of her films. Glamour was something tangible then and jewelry served as the very definition of it. Reflecting more than fashion, jewelry mirrored our cultural sophistication. It was a refined and finishing touch generations of women took seriously, even if it was as uncomplicated as pinning a lovely sprig of enamel and rhinestone flowers on a spring coat. Today it is rare to see a suit jacket or blazer unadorned.
Some magazines try, at times, to give us a more complete picture of how jewelry and fashion work together, but they often fail to explain why the pairing succeeds and how the elements work in tandem with one another. Understanding jewelry isn’t very different from being a sports fan or an art lover; it’s mostly about understanding a few key concepts and then applying them to your own aesthetic. The result will be far more captivating and personally inspiring. My blog is about sharing ideas that don’t reach us in any other medium. Jewelry is something that can be beautiful, fascinating, challenging, cheap or costlyâ€â€the difference between understanding all of these adjectives is knowledge.
As consumers, information is something we are all entitled to and should demand, especially since fine jewelry is expensive and a long-term investment. Fashion books, with their numerous ads, should offer us more than just an up-close and glossy view of their advertisers’ wares. Tell us why it’s important, why it’s innovative or why it’s a classic. New designers are featured frequently, and that’s great, but the jewelry usually doesn’t live up to all the hype. It’s about sharing enthusiasm for design and to do that they must offer us a broader view, from the iconic to the contemporary. As one fashion director told me after I’d pitched yet another bejeweled story idea that she rejected, “This kind of enthusiasm just doesn’t get into the magazine.â€Â
That’s too bad. I’ll just have to spread the word myself, one post at a time.
